|
|
 |
A Bike Ride, Anne Mustoe (1991)
Virgin Books 1 85227 337 2 Octo 250pp £14.99
The author gives up her job as headmistress of a girls boarding
schools and spends 1987 and 1988 cycling around the world. Following
the route of Alexander the Great, this rewarding travelogue is steeped
in her enthusiasm for the classics

|
This is cycle touring for Radio Three listeners. The culture is high,
the route is suffused with classical scholarship and the author won't
even deign to mend a puncture. It is an uncommon pleasure, as a result.
Reaching her mid-50s after more than a decade as a head teacher, Mustoe
decided to travel - and by a means with which she was almost entirely
unfamiliar. Drawing on her classics degree from Cambridge, and a lifetime
visiting Italy and Greece, the author sets off on Roman roads, the courses
of ancient military campaigns and visiting sites of significant cultural
interest.
Her research, before setting off through Kent (on the route of Chaucer's
pilgrims, of course) is considerable. As a result, she is able to follow,
pretty accurately, Roman routes through Europe and Alexander's route into
the near east. Doing so, she provides perspectives on the design and construction
of such roads that alone make the book worth reading by cyclists. But
there is plenty more here than that.
Here she is arriving in Rome. "I crossed the Piazzale Flaminio
and cycled through the Porta del Popolo into the magnificence of the Piazza
del Popolo. The inner face of the Porta, on the side of the ancient Porta
Flamina, was embellished in 1655 by Bernini for the State entry into Rome
of Queen Christina of Sweden. The Piazza del Poplo itself is a breathtaking
collection of monuments, from the central obelisk, brought by Augustus
from Helliopolis after the conquest of Egypt to the exuberant fountains
and statues of Veladier, who laid out the Piazza in honour of the return
of Pope Pius VII from France in 1814. The Borghese Gardens to the left
and the Baroque churches of Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in
Montesanto complete this overwhelming complex. I parked my bicycle outside
the church door and took some photographs.."
She is a very able author, however, and over the book, she makes enjoyably
light work of some otherwise forbidding history. Indeed, the book would
serve as an excellent starting point for anyone considering a similarly
themed tour of Italy, Greece, Turkey or Pakistan, not least because of
the detailed chapter headings, that make very easy its use for reference
purposes.
Beyond Pakistan (except for Malaysia) is not Mustoe's métier.
She does not like India, can't understand Thailand and somewhat grudgingly
pedals her way across the United States - rather reinforcing the adage
that the fly-over states are not so known without reason.
Nonetheless, this remains a landmark travelogue for three reasons. It
sold in very significant numbers; opened up to a whole new audience the
idea that a tour of this kind was possible in middle age; and, also launched
Mustoe's career as a cycling travel writer. Do date, she has written five
further books of cycle tours, and, although now in her mid-70s, is about
to embark on another year long exploration.
PS April 09
Sadly Anne Mustoe died on 10 November 2009. Her obitury in The Times
is here.
| |